Professional laser hair removal or at-home IPL devices?

7 min. reading time.

12-08-2020

Are you considering laser hair removal but unsure whether it’s worth going to a professional salon or if you should just buy your own epilator and remove the hair at home?

The option of hair removal from the comfort of your home may seem like a more convenient choice, but is it worth it?

IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) devices have become quite popular recently, but how soon and to what extent will your hair regrow compared to the quality of hair removal from a professional?

In this article, we will attempt to break down both options, compare them, and help you make an informed decision.

  • How does laser hair removal work?
  • Precision of hair removal
  • How long does smooth, hair-free skin last? Is there a difference?
  • Skin types. Can you accurately determine it from the comfort of your home?
  • Does it hurt?
  • Investment. Is it worth it?
  • What should you take away from this in conclusion?

Let’s take a look at how laser hair removal works.

How does laser hair removal work?

Highly concentrated light is directed into the hair follicles, where it is absorbed by the pigment in the follicle, and the hair is destroyed at the root. This process is called photothermolysis and takes place on the surface of the skin and in the dermis. It’s important to mention the hair growth cycle, which occurs in three stages: the anagen phase – the growth phase, the catagen phase – the transitional phase, and the telogen phase – the resting and regenerating phase.

Hair growth is controlled by the so-called hair bulb and stem cells. For a hair to be destroyed, it must be in the anagen phase, which is the only time when the hair is connected to the hair bulb and can therefore be properly destroyed. Another important factor in laser hair removal is that a temperature of at least 60°C must be reached in order to destroy both the stem cells and the hair bulb. Remember this information well, as we will refer to it later in the article.

A study from 2014 showed that both professional lasers and IPL epilators, when used incorrectly, can cause hair regrowth, and even increase it. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to pinpoint the exact cause of this phenomenon. The study mentioned examined the rate of hair regrowth in 36 women using IPL epilators with skin types ranging from 1 to 4 on the Fitzpatrick scale (see image). The treatment results were recorded weekly over a total of 8 weeks, followed by a three-month waiting period to observe the results after the last use of the epilator.

The results were quite shocking. After 3 months, it was revealed that during the 8-week testing period (weekly epilation), a 59% reduction in hair was achieved. However, when the interval between individual epilations was extended to 3 months, there was a 29% increase in hair growth. This brings us to the first point of comparison. If you go to a professional for epilation, it will be performed with different devices (with higher intensity), and the likelihood of the aforementioned hair regrowth is significantly lower.

Precision of hair removal

This brings us to another factor: the precision of the epilation. In a professional salon, the therapist performing the treatment has experience with epilation. They won’t miss any areas and will bring their skills and expertise to the treatment and process. At home, however, you need to be very careful to cover the entire area and not miss any spots, or you may end up with hair regrowing in an irregular pattern or location.

It is undoubtedly more convenient to entrust the process to a professional, although it’s important to consider that you often need to book an appointment well in advance and travel to the location, which means spending additional time—often costly—on the way.

How long does smooth, hair-free skin last? Is there a difference?

At-home IPL epilators have lower intensity, thus less power. It is quite likely that you will only burn the hair, but not destroy it. As mentioned earlier, to destroy the hair, you need to reach at least 60°C, which many at-home epilators may not achieve. This can result in the awakening of so-called “dormant follicles.” The hair will therefore regrow faster, and the overall treatment will be less permanent compared to professional devices.

As a result, due to the low intensity of at-home devices, the entire procedure takes significantly longer. Professional laser treatments require fewer sessions and can remove a larger amount of hair in just one visit, meaning fewer treatments are needed compared to at-home IPL epilators.

Skin types. Can you accurately determine it from the comfort of your home?

Some at-home lasers may ask you to select your skin type before use. But are you able to accurately assess what skin type you have? Incorrect use can result in permanent damage, such as pigment changes or scarring.

It is extremely important to choose the correct skin phototype and set the proper intensity of the device. If you have lighter and finer hair, it requires a higher temperature for removal so that the device can target and destroy the hair. This becomes a problem with at-home epilators, as they may not reach higher temperatures, and therefore, the hair may not be destroyed. If you have darker and thicker hair, there is a higher chance that an at-home epilator will work for you.

Does it hurt?

With at-home devices, you can adjust the intensity to make the pain level tolerable for you. The downside is that if the intensity is too low, you’ll need many more treatments to achieve the desired results. Many therapists performing professional laser hair removal use a local anesthetic (which is only necessary around intimate areas) to reduce pain, making the overall treatment experience more comfortable.

Laser hair removal treatment how it looks

Investment. Is it worth it?

If you decide to purchase a home device, you will likely invest between 4,000 – 12,000 CZK. The device’s lifespan is estimated to be 6 years. Individual procedures in a salon cost around 600 – 9,000 CZK per treatment, depending on the body area. However, the fact remains that after 6 sessions, you only need to perform “maintenance” once a year.

Since evaluating the result requires advanced mathematics and certain skills in probability tasks, we will leave the assessment to you.

What should you take away from this in conclusion?

Both methods have their pros and cons, and it ultimately depends on your financial resources or how much time you are willing to spend on hair removal. If you decide to go for a home IPL device, keep in mind that the overall hair removal process is more time-consuming and requires more frequent use of the device. It’s also important to note that if you stop using the IPL device, the possibility of hair regrowth, often in larger amounts, increases. The advantage, of course, is the price, as IPL is less financially demanding.

On the other hand, On the other hand, if you decide to go to a salon, you can expect much more lasting results. You will visit the salon 6 times, and then only once a year for “maintenance.” The procedure is ultimately much more effective, which will ease your worries about regrowing hair, and your investment will soon pay off.

You’ll make a one-time lower investment, do the procedure at home yourself, but with considerably worse results. Or, you can decide to invest in yourself, go for professional treatment just 6 times, and enjoy peace of mind. So, will it be a relaxing procedure at a modern center or a DIY epilation on your couch while watching your favorite TV show?